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@@user-ow6pd3yr4g the builders, architects, paint manufacturers, and even the siding manufacturer, make the specs on these spec home developments, not the employees of the sub contractors.

I wouldn't like using water-based primer for mdf... but if I had to use it, I suppose I'd talk with guys who sell envirolak or renner. I'd only use Cabinet Coat on built ins if the project just couldn't justify ordering up higher quality like Renner, Envirolak, centurion, etc I've only used a few Renner products (643 primer, 765 top coats) so more to experience with them.

@@XCPainter thanks

It does coat the sides of boards if they have standard gaps and if you use good brushing technique. Underside of the deck... any product or application can drip if you're coating the gaps and putting enough stain on to saturate and move around. If there's important items under the deck, I can cover them or the covrr the ground.

@@XCPainter At 2:10 I Can Clearly see the only Stain in the gaps at are the excess Drips/Runs.

​​@@theschreckster4300for one, did you notice I had JUST gotten started, and I was using a pole one with only one hand while I recorded with camera phone in my other hand? You didn't see any missed spots anyways and I'll gaurantee then got coated I've used these Deck Bosses for years now and they work like a champ.

Thanks. Benjamin Moore branded Fresh Start oil, general purpose oil would be good. Advance doesn't have the best adhesion, it's okay. With the oil primer, it would very best to make sure it's gassed off and cured before sanding, and even more before Advance goes on.

@XCPainter Thanks. I've been using Stix and Advance until I realized I should be using an oil primer on mdf. Any recommendations for a water-based finish for mdf builtins? I heard people use scuffx or Command also. 99% of my customers request BM colors. I have a Graco gx19 so not comfortable running any crazy solvents through there yet

@@joseph7105 honestly I'd look into a better coating for built ins... maybe Renner, Enviolak, or Centurion products ... you can search for distributors and they can help with the details and usage of their products.

@@XCPainter yeah I heard of those. Maybe I will just go for it now that I've switched to spraying. Thanks again

Thanks for asking. These metal doors probably won't swell at the bottom like wood does. There are 4 doors on this house and garage to paint red. There's no way I would pull 4 exterior doors off an occupied home to paint 2 sides of the doors. (Homeowners and pet dog at home.) The hinges on 3 doors are old, 1 is newer... the OLD hinge pins are not going to pull easy if at all, and would be a big hassle trying to get them lined up and installed after being freshly painted. If anything I'd pull the screws and hinges, not pins. Also, there is no yard space to even spray doors off the jamb, let alone 4 of them... the weather is windy here, sometimes even sprinkling or downpouring. If I get rained on, I can pack up tools and leave but not if there's doors sitting on sawhorses on this tiny property that need to be hung again. Those are some of the reasons.

Understood. I'm a carpenter, so duh to me. You do nice work. Now go home and get your shine box.😁

Oh I know, I know.. I was going for a spray finish, red is more of a hassle to cut door heels by brush and around hinges. The other 3 doors are 6 panels and with window trim, and sun was on the south side door so I'd rather spray each coat in about 15 - 30 seconds... so spray job it is.

These are Allpro labeled but are made by Axus Decor

Spraying with a Graco 490, 310 tip on this one

thank you...

Thanks Luis

Thanks

Now you're ready to paint doors

@@XCPainter I'm gonna be painting so many door 😎😎😎🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪🚪

Sure, what's going on?

With a repaint like this, nice and clean and furnished, rolling is preferred for drywall ceilings and walls. For New construction, usually spraying is the way to go.

@XCPainter thx for your reply, you havent uploaded in 2yrs, you were doing a great job on your videos, btw. Hope you come back. Thx again

@@ZER0o10 thanks I'll try to make that happen

The tape should not peel the paint off on good conditions and when the underlying coatings were done correctly. If paint peels, it's an indicator of a previous issue, even if it's as small as the pva/primer adhesion, top coat adhesion factor, etc In these spray situations, the interiors can get very humid, and the mud underneath everything can still absorb that moisture and cause peeling. It's better to air out the interior and let humidity go away/dry before pulling tape.

I do that all the time too brother, not always better... rarely actually

Little pratice, and yeah the 40's are so heavy! In this video, I only scooted the top or bottom over, one at a time instead of lifting the top away from wall and carrying it.

Thanks for the feedback. On the two projects shown in this video, both were new construction with no trim installed... very easy to spray(and backroll) walls at that point. The project shown with beige walls, was a 3 story with orange peel texture, 2 stairwells etc, so spraying primer and topcoats on all surfaces was pretty necessary. 2 guys sprayed and backrolled the 3 storys worth of wall space in 2 hours which would have taken a week if we brushed and rolled it all. The project with the

Have fun out there and be safe

Thanks. I used a 517 tip that day, which is about the largest size anyone would use... due to the large walls and nothing around to overspray. 517 puts out a good amount of paint so you have to be good with spraying to avoid piling it up or leaving spray pattern marks. A 515 is about the perfect size to spray many exteriors, hardiplank, lap siding, and a smaller size can be utilized as well.

I appreciate the tip! Thank you

Thank You!

Probably SW Superpaint on that one. You just have to let the paint cure overnight before unmasking and it won't stick, or shouldn't.... just like when painting front doors, I leave the weather stripping out overnight for the paint to cure some. Most acrylic paints have different characteristics, and some could stick more easily.

Complete guestimate, 200+ cuts?

It's quite easy work if you are good with spraying. Masking skills improve with practice.

Thanks for the support and questions. On this project we had primed and painted all the drywall first... Sprayed and backroll primer on all drywall,24 hrs to dry, spray and backroll walls (eggshell). We then bagged walls and sprayed ceilings Flat). We caulk all trim to walls, let dry, and quickly paint that caulking the wall color before masking/taping walls off.

I did buy a 32 foot festool hose as well, 3-4 years back, and it's awesome when it's not breaking (at the middle or end connectors). I've had to put mine back together quite a few times now.

@@XCPainter Got it makes sense, thanks

@@XCPainter Had to as well but it goes together pretty easy. Ever hit yourself in the nuts with the end of the electric cord while using the vaccuum with the 32 foot hose. That's my least favorite part of it.

There's landscape fabric laid across the roof, and there's black yoga mat, at the top, and the Pivit leveling tool

@@XCPainter Sweet. I'm going to see if I can buy a bunch of old yoga mats somewhere. Shamed to say I've never thought of putting something under the ladder on a roof, always just tried to be careful but I do notice some of the grit on the shingle gets knocked off.

That was my temporary spray booth I put up in order to paint two or 3 shop projects

I haven't used that product before. Possibly a 408 tip though. 800-1000 psi

Only touch the tops or inside the knob area... I also put 3" screws for a handle at the top hinge mortise most of the time. Could also attach an actual handle there if you had something like that

@@XCPainter good ideas, thnx! 👍🎅🎄

There are a few reasons why you can't successfully spray in a tall column pattern... I was spraying out the soffits up top, along with the top section that requires certain ladder sets. Also there's different ladder spacing from the wall requiring an extension wand on the lower sections. 3rd reason is that the drying paint would create tall skinny sections where the overlaps would flash very badly.

Thanks. It can go either way depending on your preference and the situation, like amount of area to cover, ability/equipment to spray, if spraying is allowable in occupied space, or you don't mind a bit of masking.

On small jobs with less logistics in mind, I'd brush and roll ceilings then brush/roll walls. For Larger spaces and ceilings, and nice results desired quickly, I woukd usually paint walls then mask and spray ceilings

Lol

I think that was just a Graco 3' or 4' pole gun set up.

@@XCPainter yo thanks enjoy your speed and technique and mind set different level

The advantage of spraying can be situational... so in the case of new construction spec homes, and with orange peel texture, it is so much easier, effective and efficient to spray the paint on and backroll instead of manually brushing or rolling every corner, bottom and top of wall, dipping hundreds of times considering the massive amount of drywall area and coats of products needed. We can spray out this interior in 5 - 6 man hours max... if we brushed and rolled this 3 story home requiring 2 coats, it would take 40 plus man hours

@@XCPainter So the advantage is just doing the corners faster? I could be wrong, but I feel like i could paint just as fast with 2 man brushing and rolling on a regular 4 corner walls room, it would be cleaner, healthier cause no pray in the air, require less prep work and less cleaning of the tools after process. I allways thought just spraying would be enough, if u include a second man for the backroll, it starts to look inefective to me